As you could tell assertContains is for checking that an array contains a value.
Looking to see if the string contains a substring, your simplest query would be to use assertRegexp()
$this->assertRegexp('/flour/', $plaintext);
You would just need to add the delimiters.
If you really want to have an assertStringContains assertion, you can extend PHPUnit_Framework_TestCase and create your own.
UPDATE
In the pre-9 versions of PHPUnit, assertContains will work on strings.
From 9+ we need to use assertStringContainsString or assertStringContainsStringIgnoringCase.